William Henry Fox Talbot, INVENTED A FIXING PROCESS, calotype - process using silver nitrate. (Destruction of the negative)
(Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione, photographed by Adolphe Braun, 1856...had around 280 photographs of her, in a way she is one of the first fashion models, focusing more on her character (i.e. personality, directing the shoot, signature moments of her life.)
Another photo by Pierson 1861-1867 - the image really challenged taboo and sexual focus, photographing only her legs & feet which was frowned upon at this period.
Age of the fashion magazine, improvements in the halftone printing (dot) process.
Paul Poiret ---- freedom from corsetry, signature shapes - hobble skirt, harem pants. Influenced by antique dress - draping. Can see this in his designs -- Art et Decoration, 1911. Edward Steichen photographs Paul Poirets design.
Mid 1930s - hype of modernism. EDWARD STEICHEN, major detail, lit theatrically, display the materials, what the experience is perceived to be. celebration of the technical construction of the garment aswell as the photographic construction.
Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar..... Leaders in fashion photographs in the 1920s and 30s.
Horst P Horst costume for Salvador Dali's 'Dream of Venus'. 1939.
British Vogue - Cecil Beaton (1904-1980) & Vanity fair.
Photographed and was a member of the 'British Young Things' of the 1920s/30s.
Prolific diarist.
Designed sets, costumes, and lighting for Broadway.
Scope of his work - also interested in the film industry, Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mid 1930's encapsulates all his interests in one photograph.
Women fashion photographers - Lee Miller - Photographed by Steichen, American photographer and fashion model at age 19.
Photographer - Goes to Paris in 1929 with photographer Man Ray - Involved in the surrealist movement in photography ---- Also acts as a war correspondent.
Panorama of Paris, Suzy Parker in Jacques Fath Gown, 1953. Visual contrast in the sense that the character in the background who is part of this image is wearing black whereas in the foreground the woman is wearing white, highlighting the focus of the photograph.
American photographer - Richard Avedon (1923-2004) Harpers Bazaar till 1966, Vogue 1966 onwards, The book 'In the American West'. (Art documentary field.)
Pioneer of an in-between moment in fashion photography, tends to photograph people in an emotional/ movement state breaking the norms of photography.
Helmut Newton (1920-2004) Vogue and Harpers Bazaar.
Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan shoes
I-D magazine VS The Face. Fashion magazines that encompassed a whole new attitude and face of leadership, all really a trend towards Heroin sheep.....Juergen Teller (1964) German photographer, photos in the face of Vogue. Has worked with Vivienne Westwood etc.
Corrine Day (1965-2010) British fashion photographer and model, worked for the Face & Vogue. Vogue cover with Kate Moss credited with the beginnings of the trend for the 'waif' look.
ADOBE PHOTOSHOP - MASSIVE FACTOR IN FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY.
Digital image manipulation - graphics editing programme - first launched in 2003.
Nick Knight - Manipulations a big part of his work which is heavily influenced by Architecture. Worked with Yohji Yammamoto in the 90's and with Alexander McQueen.
Fashion Blogging, Democratises fashion photography. Anyone can write about/ photograph fashion. E.g. Tavi Gevinsons 'style rookie'.
Street-style Copenhagen... http://copenhagenstreetstyle.thepop.com/
Further Reading ========== Barnard, M (2002) Fashion as Communication. Routledge, London
Rankin, (2009) Seven photographs that changed Fashion, BBC4.
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